Hossfeld Vineyards. Henry and Susan Hossfeld moved to this part of the Napa Valley in 1980 from Marin County. Henry owned and continued to operate a successful home construction and remodel company. After acquiring the property, he and Susan decided to grow crops on site. Initially they looked at planting kiwis but then were encouraged to plant grape vines from others already in the valley. The rocks on site became a formidable challenge during the development of the vineyard. The site is 57 acres of which 8 blocks over 21 acres are planted to approximately 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and the remainder divided between Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The property is nestled between the Stags Leap District and Atlas Peak.
And it’s not only vines they grow but the family also has a green thumb led by Susan. Their gardens and orchard are a beautiful oasis on the property with a variety of fruit trees, apples, avocados, vegetables and a Zen part of the garden planted to a number of flowering plants.
When people ask the family the question, “what are your soils made of?”, the easiest and most direct way to answer is simply, rock. The property is volcanic with both rhyolite and andesite and very little topsoil. The site features a number of exposures including several vineyard blocks on very steep slopes. So prolific are the rocks on this property that when Henry decided to plant vines in 1981, in parts of the vineyard he dynamited every hole for each vine. And some sections of their vineyard have absolutely no soil; one area in particular is solid rock and has never been planted although vines grow around the perimeter of this section.
With that said, maintaining and improving the soil health for the soils they have is an integral part of their farming.
At one point early in the vineyard development Henry bought in the football team from Napa High School to help drive stakes into the vineyard – they lasted all of one day, based on the difficulty of pounding stakes through rock. They have not been back since.
The upper part of their vineyard is around 1,000 feet; the vineyard is divided into 8 different blocks. Wile most of the vineyard has been replanted over the decades, an old block dating from the early 1980s remains. From sections of the property there are 360-degree views, looking up valley to the north and on clear days one can see Mt. Tamalpais and into downtown San Francisco to the south; when the sun sets on a clear day one can see that city’s ‘glowing’ buildings.
This vineyard could not be planted today based on the Napa County ordinance prohibiting planting grapevines for commercial use on steep slopes and or terracing. Despite working full time and the scope of the work needed to maintain the vineyard, Henry considered grape growing a hobby. Henry learned viticulture by ‘doing’ along with taking classes at Napa Valley College and at UC Davis. Today the vineyard is farmed entirely organically, with a no till policy and has been CCOF certified since 2019. While canopy management is and important part of their operations, with temperatures continue to increase and or spike at certain times of the year, shade cloths are used. Farming also has its challenges; in order to keep the vole and gopher population under control, several rat terriers were introduced to the property and 15 owl boxes are located among the vineyards.
Resilience is a very important attribute in the wine business as is persistence. These two words are cousins. And these are attributes the Hossfeld family knows well. The vineyard had to be replanted in the early 1990s as the vines were planted on AXR rootstalk (not resistant to phyloxxera). When Henry died far too young in 2009 the family came to a crossroad – should they sell, or should they keep the property? After 5 months of listing the property for sale in 2009, a good time not to sell due to the economic recession, they took it off the market.
Then in 2017 devastating fires tore through this part of Napa Valley and severely damaged their property, burning the family home, other buildings and destroying some 75% of their entire vineyard. They replanted these destroyed vines in 2019. In 2020 some of their already fermenting wines were stored in a winery which almost completely burned down in the north part of the valley. And in 2022, not a year associated with smoke taint in Napa Valley, a nearby fire burned for a day in May, unusually early in the season, occurring during set, causing smoke taint in their Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
After Henry died, his daughters took over key roles. Lucia is their vineyard manager overseeing several employees and Hayley was involved for a number of years; Hayley made wine in France, Spain and New Zealand and has her master’s degree in Innovative Enology from the Universidad del País Vasco (University of Basque Country). Chad McComber, Lucia’s husband is their winemaker, having started at ZD Wines in his early 20s working in their office before soon transitioning to working in the cellar. He spent 20 years at ZD Wines before leaving in 2022 to focus on Hossfeld.
We first discovered the Hossfeld Vineyard many years ago when we tried a Carter Cellars Coliseum Block Hossfeld Vineyard designate. This block is named for its geography; it is curved like a coliseum, steep and bowl-like and is located on the east side of their property just above Soda Canyon Road. After the fires of 2017 one can now easily see this block while driving on Soda Canyon Road about 1.5 miles before reaching the driveway for the Caves at Soda Canyon winery.
The majority of their grapes are sold to a limited number of Napa Valley based producers. Hayley recalls her mother thumbing through the yellow pages years ago eventually locating the phone number for Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and cold calling their founder and owner, Warren Winiarski. She convinced him that Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars needed some south Napa Valley hillside fruit. Her persuasion was successful. Thge vineyard was part of the evolution in the 1990s of Napa Valley producers starting to bottle single vineyard designate wines. Others who have purchased grapes over the years including Pahlmeyer for their Merlot (1994-2001), Schrader, Lewis Cellars, Beaulieu Vineyard, Chateau Boswell, Carter Cellars, Arkenstone, Nickel & Nickel, Shafer, TOR, AXR and to winemaker Sean Thackery. Hossfeld Vineyard continues to sell grapes to a variety of producers. However, in 2014 they began to make tiny lots of their own wine from the estate and in 2016 produced their first wine bottled under the Hossfeld label.
This site is truly special; it produces distinctive wines that despite sometimes higher alcohols, and regardless of vintage, are fresh, vibrant, savory, layered and balanced. Wines from this property are also known for their texture, color and long finish. And this is partly a result of its unique location involving its rocky terroir, its elevation, its open exposure and southerly location on slopes with unobstructed views including of the San Pablo Bay resulting in plenty of air flow, and its diversity of exposures ranging from both western and eastern facing slopes.
Select Wines
Whites/Sparkling
The 2021 Hossfeld White Wine Napa Valley is a blend of Malvasia Bianca and Pinot Grigio. These varieties were co-fermented and then aged for 6 months in stainless steel barrels. This wine is medium golden in color; the aromatics quickly catch one’s attention because they are sweetly floral and simultaneously fruity. And they are not shy. The bouquet offers scents of warm honey, lychee, pineapple, assorted tropical fruits including mango, ripe pear and star jasmine, honeysuckle and citrus blossom. When smelling this wine we were virtually transported to the Hossfeld property, walking through their well kept and vibrant arboretum like space some warm mid spring day. Or perhaps visiting a citrus grove in spring in the southern San Joaquin Valley. Based on the aromatics alone, one might be tempted to think they are about to try an off-dry or even dessert wine, but that is not the case. The palate sports flavors of orange melon, pineapple, tangerine and granny smith apple. This wine’s texture is rounded and creamy supported by mouth-watering acidity, especially felt on the finish. The flavors are long lasting. Simply put, this wine is delicious.
The 2019 Hossfeld Los Carneros Sparkling Chardonnay (pétillant natural, meaning ‘naturally sparkling’ in French) was bottled during its fermentation allowing the fermentation to finish within the bottle – with the CO2 by-product trapped within, creating the resulting sparkling wine. The very few we have seen in the Napa Valley tend to be made by younger innovative winemakers. Deep golden in color the aromas show notes of honeysuckle, lime, kiwi, green apple and pear. Light, and off dry, the wine glides smoothly across the palate with flavors of citrus and melon and a lingering, but tempered sweetness.
Reds
Pinot Noir
Hossfeld produced several one off bottlings of Pinot Noir including in 2021 and 2022 from Sonoma County.
The 2021 Hossfeld Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir was sourced from an elevated vineyard only about 3 miles from the Pacific Ocean in the far reaches of north western Sonoma County. This wine is medium ruby in color; the bouquet is focused primarily on its fruit characteristics rather than any sort of ‘Pinot spice/sweat’. These red-fruited scents include raspberry, strawberry, cherry, cranberry and licorice accompanied by more subtle notes of vanilla, Tonka bean (look that one up if you are unfamiliar with it), dried mushroom and old cedar box. The palate is as bright as a crisp summer morning in this part of Sonoma County. Also savory, on the palate there are flavors of dried herbs including sage, white pepper, red plum, currant, cherry cola, cranberries, blueberries and a light note of root beer. Certain California Pinot Noirs are missing a noticeable textural component, which we blame on over ripeness. This bottling is not one of those. We like that. It features lightly grainy tannins, with a subtle but persistent drying character. Very much food friendly and very much ageworthy.
Merlot
The 2022 Hossfeld Merlot is 100% varietal; fruit forward and ripe, but with a simultaneous elegance, the aromatics are of blackberry, boysenberry, cherry, plum, blueberry and red licorice with a layer of old cedar box. Eventually opening to a layer of cocoa powder. The freshness is preserved quite well from a particularly challenging year. Juicy on the entry, there are flavors of plum, cherry, and boysenberry. Lingers savory with notes of a bright acidity and a light but refreshing herbal note including dried sage and a final note of dried tobacco leaf. The tannins are integrated very nicely 2 years post vintage, with a tumbled and dusty character. Finishes bright and mouth watering. Looking for a Merlot that will pair will with a diversity of meats, ranging from BBQ chicken to smoke ham, this bottling is the ideal candidate. This wine was aged 20 months in French oak barrels.
The 2017 Hossfeld Napa Valley Merlot is ruby red in color; the wine initially offers aromas of leather along with dark berry fruits and cherry with some darker spice nuances and dark chocolate. The bouquet is appealing. After trying the wine, we wondered if any Cabernet Sauvignon was blended in – the answer is no, this is 100% varietal Merlot. Big yet balanced, its depth and structure are important characteristics. Great acidity with bright fruit showing across the palate. Granular, long-lasting tannins with a decent and long grip, anchor the finish. The wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged about 18 months in all French oak, about 70% new. This beauty has plenty of life ahead of it.
Estate Blend
The 2021 Hossfeld Napa Valley Estate Blend; is 70% Merlot and Malbec, with both varieties co-fermented and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep ruby in color. Red fruited and higher toned, the bouquet offers aromas blueberry, raspberry, red cherry, pomegranate, plum, red licorice with a layer of cocoa powder and herbs including thyme and dried sage. Floral, including aromas of lilacs and lavender; this wine is lifted both on the bouquet and palate. Bright, juicy and mouth watering with flavors of plum, cherry, currant and cranberry. The gravelly and grainy and still edgy tannins, reflective of this vintage in Napa Valley in particular continue to persist beyond the fruit with a drying finish. While still tightly wound in its youth, its vibrancy is what stands out. Field blend some of the blocks towards the front/west of their property. Holistic and synergistic approach to winemaking. Hands off approach. Savory.
The 2019 Hossfeld Napa Valley Estate Blend is a unique blend of 40% Malbec, 40% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is deep ruby in color; the bouquet offers a pretty union of both fruit and a slight herbal note including sage; additional scents include dried tobacco, plum, violets and a light complementary toasted oak character. This wine’s brightness of acidity is immediately felt with red fruited flavors of cherry, raspberry, plum and licorice. The palate delivers a pleasing opulence but without being overly ripe. The tannins are grainy and linger with a moderate grip alongside lightly toasted oak. We had no hesitation in calling the finish savory.
Cabernet Sauvignon
The 2021 Hossfeld Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Coliseum Block is deep ruby and opaque with an amaranthine rim; the bouquet offers aromas of dried herbs including sage, a garrigue character and floral notes including lavender, lilacs and violets. This Cabernet Sauvignon offers aromatic character, complexity and layering beyond many contemporary Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon which loses these attributes in favor of over ripeness. Red fruited, bright and vivacious, on the palate there are flavors of red cherry, currant, cranberry, and raspberry. Savory, dusty, with dried herbs, sage, and gravelly tannins exerting a firm and broadly coating grip, outpacing the fruit on the finish. Lingers mouth watering, fresh and lively. We would love to try this again in 10 and then again in 20 years. Its clearly built with some age worthiness. This is one of the most balanced 15.5% alcohol Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons we have ever tried. It was aged for 22 months in French oak barrels.
Malbec
The 2016 Hossfeld Napa Valley (100% varietal) Malbec is deep purple in color; this wine offers ripe fruit (blackberry & boysenberry) with an earthiness and a mushroom note to the bouquet (which dissipates after the wine opens further). Also, some floral notes including violets. Slightly briary – slightly savory. Very well concentrated yet well balanced with bright acidity across the palate. Flavors of plum and red cherry. Some white pepper. A gentle texture lingers on the finish with nicely integrated tannins. Drinks very well by itself. This is an impressive offering from a variety that is rarely made as a standalone wine in Napa Valley.
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The elegant and attractive label design was created by one of the best graphic designers and label artists in the Napa Valley, Michael McDermott. He visited the property and gathered a number of leaves that had dropped on the ground – using these leaves as the inspiration for their label. The oak leaf on their label is from a Black Oak tree.
Typically, annual production is between 500 and 600 cases with restaurant and retail distribution primarily within California, Michigan and internationally in Indonesia. The wines are sold direct through their website and a member only mailing list. Locally select wines may be found at V Wine Cellars in Yountville and at the Oakville Wine Merchant. For more information and to sign up for their mailing list, visit: www.hossfeldvineyards.com
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