Gentleman Farmer Wines

Gentleman Farmer Wines is a partnership between Joe Wolosz and Jeff Durham; both who have long careers centered around hospitality and the culinary worlds. Joe grew up in Pismo Beach, central California around hotels; his family owned two properties along California’s coastline including El Patio Motel and The Wayside Motel. Later he worked in restaurants in Los Angeles and tasting rooms in Edna Valley (Tailey Vineyards and Saucelito Canyon). His first real estate purchase was the now closed Halcyon Hotel in San Francisco. Jeff’s family used to farm 22 acres in Oak Knoll; like Joe, he has a degree in Hotel & Restaurant Management from Cal Poly Pomona (although both never knew each other while attending the same college). And until selling it 2023, Joe and Jeff used to own The Redwood Fortuna Riverwalk Hotel (located in Fortuna, California).

Sommelier Scott Tracey was involved until 2017; we originally met with both Scott and Joey in Yountville. Scott moved to the valley from Los Angeles and helped open La Toque restaurant. As he told us, he could always find a good job at a premium restaurant in Los Angeles and left that possibility open when he first came to the valley. However, he realized the differences in lifestyle when during La Toque’s first week of business a patron ordered a well-known Napa wine because “his daughter was on the same team as the vintner’s daughter!”

Today Gentleman Farmer Wines produces around 1,700 cases annually although this varies from year to year. The inception for what became Gentleman Farmer wines was a home wine made by Joe and Jeff in their friend’s garage in St. Helena in 1999. The brand was originally founded as Poem Cellars with their inaugural vintage in 2005. Those who have followed the evolution of the brand, remember the “little man” which appeared on their Poem Cellars label; it quickly drew one’s eye to the bottle. It was an image of a “paper doll” of a dapperly dressed man. The image represented celebration and elegance, qualities they associate with the wine. The name was in homage to Robert Louis Stevenson’s famous quote, “and the wine is bottled poetry”, but after discovering another brand owned the trademark to this name, Poem Cellars transitioned to Gentleman Farmer Wines.

They strive to showcase the varietal characters in their wines rather than barrel influences and over the years, have scaled back the amount of oak used for aging the wines. Their primary vineyard sources tend to be from cooler southern parts of Napa Valley including the Oak Knoll District but also from select vineyards in St. Helena.

With their backgrounds it is only fitting that the style of wines they produce are food friendly. These wines are not about pushing the envelope on ripeness, power and intensity but rather they speak to the vintage and are crafted with restraint, brightness and freshness. Several of their vineyards are constant from year to year but with many contacts in the valley, over the years they have diversified their vineyard sources.

Select Wines/Winemaking
The 2022 Gentleman Farmer Rosé of Pinot Noir is 95% Pinot Noir, 2% Pinot Meunier and 3% Merlot. Its darker color comes from a Merlot bleed and then add to the wine. This wine is dark pink in color; the bouquet takes a minute to open and needs some time to fully evolve in the glass. It offers a minerally note, raspberry hard candy, watermelon and strawberry. Immediately noticeable on the plate is its weight, showcasing a creamy and almost saline texture. This wine sports flavors of cranberry, rhubarb, raspberry and wild strawberries, the ones that are white when ripe and never turn red. It lingers crisp and clean. Joey was once told during one of his trips to Europe that rosé wines are made for the pool or for gastronomy; this bottling is clearly made with food in mind. We enjoyed this with one of Jeff’s brioche made from a sour bread starter he calls Imogene and salmon rillette cooked with Pernod, an anise-flavored liqueur.

The 2020 Gentleman Farmer Chardonnay is from the historic Muir-Hanna Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District. This vineyard is owned by John Muir’s great grandson and family; it was one of the Chardonnay vineyards that produced the fruit for Chateau Montelena’s 1973 vintage which won the “Judgement of Paris” tasting. Gentleman Farmer started out with just three rows from this site but have since expanded to 20 rows (always the same rows each year). The vineyard is farmed organically; Joey told us you can always expect birds, butterflies and flowers among the vines. This wine is dark golden in color; the bouquet offers a honeyed note including of honeysuckle and honeycomb accompanied by aromas of warm butter, corn tassel, apricot, ripe yellow melon, pineapple and a note of lemon curd. The palate shows a light and rounded viscosity, but is not heavy. This wine is richly flavored offering notes of crème Brule, and stone and tropical fruits including apricot, yellow peach, mango, ripe papaya and pineapple. Balanced. Finishes clean. It is neither oaky or overtly buttery, but showcases both a ripeness and a varietal character. This wine was entirely barrel fermented in 50% new oak and 50% neutral and did not go through malolactic fermentation.

The 2018 Gentleman Farmer Napa Valley Chardonnay was sourced from both the Muir-Hannah Vineyard and from a site in the Russian River appellation in neighboring Sonoma County. This 2018 bottling is medium golden in color; offers pretty aromatics including lemon/lime, honeycomb, honeysuckle, popcorn butter, and sweeter dessert spice nuances including a browned sugar note. Shows a softness and roundness of texture across the palate complemented nicely by flavors of mandarin and ripe golden delicious apple. Lingers with plenty of fruit along with pleasing notes of warm vanilla, butter and crème Brule. Drinks far too easily by itself 🙂 Only 168 cases were produced. The first Chardonnay produced by Gentleman Farmer was in 2012.

Jeff and Joey often pair a butter chicken liver mousse with their Chardonnay. They stumbled upon this idea while dining at a restaurant in France; they were told the chef used Chardonnay in his mousse. Upon returning to the states, Joey tried to replicate this recipe using the Gentleman Farmer bottled Chardonnay. But something wasn’t quite right. He reached out to the chef in France and was told he needed us use Chardonnay grape juice before it had started fermented and before it had been sulphured. Now they take some of their pre-fermented Chardonnay and freeze it for use anytime of the year.

The 2021 Gentleman Farmer Sonoma Coast Russian River Pinot Noir is medium ruby in color; from its first aromas, this wine smells like the variety. The bouquet offers scents of cherry cola, raspberry and bramble; it offers both fruit and subtle layers of spices including white pepper, old cedar box, dry earth and dried herbs. However, the fruit dominates. The palate offers a rich expression of this variety with layers of flavor including raspberry, cherry cola, cranberry, licorice, dried herbs, a note of sage and a subtle hint of white pepper. It’s texture is plush featuring supple tannins gently making their presence felt more on the front of the palate than the back. Lingers with a very light drying character. While certainly a versatile wine with food, of all the wines we tried, perhaps this shows most comfortably by itself.

The 2019 Gentleman Farmer Red Wine Napa Valley is dominated by Merlot but with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. This wine is deep ruby in color; the first aromatic we noted was tobacco spice along with cassis, ripe cherry, old cedar box, bramble, and chocolate and mocha as the wine evolves in the glass. The bouquet shows restraint; it is nice to take a break from the more opulent hedonistic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons we have recently been tasting. Bright, lively and red fruited across the palate, this wine reveals flavors of cherry, currant and cranberry. The tannins offers a food friendly textural grip and are gravelly, persistent and outpace the fruit on the finish. This wine is fresh, juicy and savory with plenty of energy across the palate. It drinks well now but should be in a sweet spot 7-10 years post vintage. The grapes for this wine were grown in the Oak Knoll District.

The 2019 Gentleman Farmer Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with a small amount of Merlot. This wine is deep ruby in the glass and nearly opaque; the bouquet offers aromas of red chili spice, dark raspberry, cherry pie, boysenberry and a hint of saddle leather sitting in warm sun. This wine is bright and red-fruited across the palate with flavors of red cherry, currant and red plum. It finishes lively with a light and lingering tartness. We have always been attracted to the paintings of twirling dancers by Edgar Degas. This wine has an energy and liveliness similar to some of the performers we have seen portrayed in his works. It is fresh, savory and very food friendly. We immediately thought of pairing this with the Grilled Octopus Salad, a dish we have enjoyed several times this year at Tarla Mediterranean Grill, a 1-2 minute walk from the Gentleman Farmer’s bungalow in downtown Napa.

The 2016 Gentleman Farmer Cabernet Sauvignon is very dark red with purplish tinges on the rim; the bouquet offers aromas of mocha, espresso, black licorice, cedar plank, black olive, spicy plum, ripe blackberry and milk chocolate. Its aromatic profile delivers a wide diversity of scents. Not heavy on the palate, this wine features a fine grip of delicate and dry tannins which linger softly. The finish also features mostly darker fruit (plum). Nothing is out of balance with this wine – seamless from start to the finish. Also, to be commended for its lovely texture.

Poem Cellars
The 2008 Poem Cellars Engaged Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is from a dry farmed vineyard in St. Helena. The wine is deep ruby in color and fairly dark. The bouquet is layered, intriguing and very aromatic with notes of raspberry, baked cherry and as the wine opens, it reveals delicate aromas of vanilla. The plate is rounded with layers of flavor including both red and dark fruits. And there are some accompanying baking spices. The wine has bright acidity as well as a long and lively finish. Notes of black cherry linger along with the fairly soft fine-grained tannins.

The 2008 Poem Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Franc is an elegant wine from the bouquet through the palate to the finish. The delicate perfume driven aromatics also show a slight dustiness. Balance is the key to any wine and this bottling has plenty of it. It is soft and seductive throughout. The palate offers flavors of raspberry and red currant. Liquid velvet. The finish is clean and delicate. This is a beautiful representation of what this variety can do when it grows in an area where it can fully ripen. We remember this being one of the most pleasant Cabernet Franc wines we tried early in our work for the Napa Wine Project. Only 24 cases were produced.

The Bungalow: A Studio for Gustatory Well Being, Downtown Napa
In early 2020 Joey and Jeff purchased an old Craftsman Bungalow house built in 1926, in downtown Napa in a location called the West End. Their ribbon cutting ceremony was held on December 8, 2023. This part of 1st Street has become a bit more lively and moved further west with the opening of several food and drinking spaces including the Roots Run Deep tasting room, Chispa Bar, The Garden by Tannery Bend Beerworks.

Joe and Jeff visited Bordeaux in 2017; they had arranged a visit to a chateau in Margaux. Prior to their arrival the owner called them and asked if they had already eaten. They had not, so she invited them to enjoy lunch at her property. Joe remembers the special feeling of visiting her home for lunch prior to the tour of the winery and chateau. This resonated with them and in part inspired them to create a space centered around food and wine with an ambience similar to that of walking into someone’s home. Joe has enjoyed cooking for many years – early in his career he wanted to own his own restaurant. That never materialized and later in life he realized he didn’t want to grow old and have regrets about never more seriously pursuing his culinary passion.

Starting in 2019 Joe began publishing Field Notes, a monthly newsletter sprinkled with both personal and family recipes. Several times a year he incorporates these into the Field Notes printed publication. This also contains interviews with a diversity of tastemakers and artists; his subjects have ranged from drag queens to actors to chefs to other craftspeople.

This space was previously used as an attorney’s office. Joe and Jeff oversaw a full renovation of the interior including demolishing several of the walls, in the process leaving an outline in the floor of the original rooms. Three separate but joined spaces are thoughtfully furnished, highlighting three parts of California including southern, central and the northern part of the state. The mural of the redwoods pays homage to the 15 years they owned and operated the Redwood Walk in Fortuna, CA.

Other furnishings include law books from Joe and Jeff’s birth years that they saved from the previous occupant, some existing taxidermy (Joe’s brother practiced taxidermy) and several musical instruments including an accordion and a piano. Those who spend any time here will soon realize an experience at the bungalow is rooted in conversation, food, wine, art and music. And with such an open, inviting and intimate space, guests are encouraged to come into the kitchen.

Operating hours are daily from 9-5pm; visits are by appointment only and include a variety of experiences such as breakfast, lunch or dinner options. The space can also be rented for private events. They will try to accommodate walk-ins if there is availability but for bottle service only. Several seats are available on the porch and in late summer 2024, weather permitting tastings can also be hosted outside near the entrance stairs.

Wine enthusiasts who want to energize themselves prior to breakfast can inquire about a 5k run with Jeff along the Napa River and through parts of downtown. And those interested in a less physically taxing activity can participate in a silent meditation session led by Joe within the bungalow, cushions provided. Conveniently the space has several parking spots in a dedicated parking lot behind the building on Sam Lane.

And in 2023 Gentleman Farmer Wines purchased the neighboring historic house (dates from the late 1800s) at 1580 First Street. This home will eventually be the Gentleman Farmer Guest House with 5 guestrooms, a lounge and a kitchen. It is currently home of Napa/Sonoma Supply, a wine country gift retailer.

Gentleman Farmer wines are found in a limited number of restaurants and wine shops in Napa Valley as well as in Los Angeles. However, most of their wines are sold direct to consumer through their allocation list and wine club with either 4, 6 or 12 bottles shipped quarterly. For more information or to sign up for their allocation list, visit: www.gentlemanfarmerwines.com

The Redwood Fortuna Riverwalk Hotel
Originally purchased by Joe and Jeff in 2008, this comfortable hotel is located west of the 101 in Fortuna, California (Humboldt County) – about a 4 hour drive from Yountville. They sold this property in 2023 but we keep our notes here for historical reference.

Fortuna is located slightly inland near the Eel River and as a result of its geographical location thankfully receives less fog than nearby Eureka and Arcata which are right next to the chilly Pacific Ocean. Throughout its western history, Fortuna has inextricably been linked to nearby agriculture, lumber, dairies, fishing and served as a junction for the gold miners working the mines in the interior. Known as the ‘friendly city’.

The two-story (stairs only – no elevators) Redwood Fortuna Riverwalk Hotel is conveniently located mere minutes from either the northbound or southbound exits off of the 101 freeway. And based on its location – is a close drive to a number of area attractions including numerous redwood sites, beaches and picturesque towns such as Ferndale, Eureka and Arcata.

When Joe and Jeff purchased the property, it was a Holiday Inn Express – and over the years they have added their own personal touches. Clean and comfortable with very welcoming staff and a homey reception area featuring a large regional mural on the wall, a wall of key chains, fishing reels next to the check-in counter (as an homage to the area’s fishing industry), use of recycled redwood from an old water tower north of Arcata and plenty of books and other reading materials which can be borrowed by guests.

Several tables are located on the north side of the building along with a barbecue for guests. An indoor pool that staff refers to as the Swimming Hole is located in a side room adjacent to the lobby. Complimentary breakfast is included for each guest and is offered with a choice of two items along with select drinks. And as expected, several of the Gentleman Farmer wines are sold at the reception. The property features plenty of parking although we have seen the parking lot almost completely filled on busy summer weekends.

And a short walk to the west of the hotel is the picturesque Eel River accessed by the levy walk which runs along its shoreline for quite a distance. And along part of this trail (slightly northwest of the hotel) are a number of semi-wild chickens which roost in nearby trees during the evening. During a stay at the hotel, we hatched a wild plan to catch several of the hens for a friend’s chicken coop in Napa Valley but were unsuccessful. These birds are much smarter and quicker than they look.

For more information and or to reserve a stay, please visit: www.theredwoodhotel.com