Đồi Đá Wine

Đồi Đá Wine was founded with its inaugural vintage in 2022, a Cabernet Sauvignon. Their 18 acre rocky property is located directly behind (east) of Signorello Vineyards. It is surrounded by other AVA’s but is not within any of them, rather this is designated as Napa Valley Appellation. Although perhaps these rocky slopes should be a part of a small AVA due to this being a distinctive region. The Pham family (Cuong and Ann) purchased this site in late 2021; the previous owners had begun the process of planting the vineyard but had not yet acquired the necessary permits. The Atlas Peak Fire burned through the property in 2017 but remarkably spared the house with the fire burning surrounding vegetation, almost up to its edges. And Đồi Đá is an appropriate name for the brand; translated from Vietnamese to English it means ‘stony hill’.

This was not the family’s first introduction to Napa Valley. Cuong is a former IT consultant in Silicon Valley who has worked for Apple, Oracle, and Verizon. While still working for Apple he relocated to the city of Napa.

A seven acre vineyard was planted in 2024 by Pina Vineyard Management, overseen by winemaker Nova Cadamatre; she chose the clonal and rootstock selections. The property had never before been planted to grapevines. And Pina Vineyard Management laid out the vineyard footprint and planted the vines. This was a rare opportunity in 2024 to develop a new mountain vineyard in Napa Valley.

It is an exceptional vineyard site; the primary knoll is planted entirely to three clones of Cabernet Sauvignon including 4, 169 and 685 (one of Nova’s favorites to work with), wrapping almost 360 degrees around for ultimate exposure. The south facing side of this knoll is perched above the valley offering immediate access to breezes blowing in from the San Pablo Bay to the south. But a short walk around the other side of the knoll offers much greater protection from the wind and the afternoon sun.

And another hillside block, which Nova refers to as the ‘blending block’ is planted to clone 327 of Cabernet Franc and clone 400 of Petit Verdot. The Cabernet Franc is protected and has some shading while the Petit Verdot is on the most exposed side of the property. Based on its variable aspects and exposure, this is a complex site; the nuances and complexities of this terroir should be reflected in the resulting wines. The first vintage should be in 2027 or 2028, so look for the first estate wine at the end of the 2020 decade.

And how Nova was introduced to Cuong was by chance. On January 1, 2022 Nova noticed some remodeling was occurring near her house on a neighboring home which was for sale. She was introduced to the agent who asked her what type of work she was in. She mentioned, winemaking and the agent told her of a client that might need a winemaker; it was Cuong. And remarkably this was the first day that she started her consulting business. If only marketing one’s services was always this easy.

Select Wines
The 2022 Doi Da Cabernet Sauvignon (100% varietal) is a blend of grapes from Oakville and Rutherford vineyards; this wine is deep ruby in color. The first aromatic we noted was raspberry jam, with additional red fruited scents including red cherry, Persian mulberry and currant with a lasting note of dried tobacco leaf, sage, nutmeg, cinnamon stick and cocoa powder. On the palate there is a union of both red fruits and some savory herbal characteristics. These flavors include cherry, raspberry, currant and cranberry lingering with a note of tobacco, and mocha. Both acid and fruit driven, this is a refreshing and elegant take on a wine from two appellations which often produce more hedonistic and opulent bottlings. The lightly grainy and broadly coating tannins are seamlessly integrated into the lively, refreshing and mouth watering finish. Very much a food friendly wine, in the spirit of Vietnamese culinary heritage and from personal experience, this wine pairs very well with Cơm tấm (broken rice).

The vineyard sources for the early Đồi Đá vintages have varied including from Oakville in 2023 and from the Ed Cora Vineyard on Atlas Peak in 2024.

Red Boat Fish Sauce
After moving to the U.S. Cuong immediately noticed he was not able to buy the type and quality of fish sauces he remembered enjoying while living in Vietnam. So he began to think of how he could develop his own fish sauce and create something of high quality that didn’t smell or taste overly ‘fishy’. And this was while still working at Apple. He remembers telling friends of his idea and they thought he was a bit crazy for trying to start something like this, as he already had a very good job. So he did in 2011, and took over and expanded the operations of a small family owned fish sauce making facility on Phu Quoc, now the home of the Red Boat Fish Sauce factory.

The process of producing fish sauce has some similarities to crafting wine. Its origin is an integral part of its quality; for Red Boat black anchovies are caught in the waters surrounding the island of Phu Quoc. Where they swim, what they eat and the time they are harvested are all integral factors in making a premium fish sauce.

Like wine, fish sauce is aged in wood but unlike wine, four types of wood used for aging fish sauce are chosen so that the wood doesn’t impart any of its characteristics into the sauce. And the sauce is blended using barrels. And like some of the best lots of wine which are made from free-run juice, Red Boat bottles only the first pressed fish sauce. Also similar to the need to monitor characteristics as the wine age, so to in terms of making fish sauce, but in regard to its salt content. Early detection of the amount of salt in the fish sauce is important as it relates to quality.

In addition to the traditional brand of Red Boat, the company has expanded its product offerings including a special fish sauce aged in bourbon barrels, curries, salt, sugar and pepper and even a Red Boat cookbook.

A number of prominent chefs have also discovered the Red Boat fish sauce including Viet Pham of Salt Lake City based Pretty Bird Hot Chicken, restaurateur David Chang, culinary author Andrea Nguyen – and also co-author of the Red Boat Cookbook and Los Angeles based chef, Diep Tran among many others.

And we discovered its aromatic and flavor profile many years ago at one of our favorite Asian markets. It is also carried nationally including at Whole Foods and Trader Joes. We plan to visit the Red Boat Fish Sauce factory in Phu Quoc sometime in the winter of 2024/2025 and will update our notes and add photos here at that time.